After checking the various indicators we have available we decided today would be a drive straight to “shit Gap” which is what we call it due to all the cow shit in the water. Not pleasant that’s for sure.
The swell was certainly there but the tide was very low and the waves were hitting the bank and closing out for the first part of the session. Once some water started to come in there was a bit of a shoulder and we started to get a few rides rather than just a take off, cover up and pray.
In the end I had a good wave count and came away with some good waves for me, my count was 11, 9, and 1.
So that’s 11 waves, 9 good maneuvers and 1 major wipe out. The lack of maneuvers was due to the wave not having a shoulder to work with so you had to just pull in to the barrel and ride it until you got smashed.
The surf report for Piha today was:
Good surfing on this morning with an easing SW groundswell in the 3-4ft range with 5ft sets still slowly easing through today, winds are light offshore so clean and good waves to be had. Light winds forecast so possible sea breezes for later on.
Met Service details for today were.
Swell 2.5 metres
Period 12 Seconds
Wind NW 2 knots
High tide 2.29pm
Low tide 8.51 am