Big Swell Big Winds No Surf.

Big Swell Big Winds No Surf.

Supposedly the swell had grown to a solid 4 meters according to the met charts and with the low tide being 5am I decided I would risk the so called 13 knot winds blowing SW. Mark decided he would have a sleep in so at 6am I was off on the 1 hour trip to our usual spot. I was optimistic with about 15 mins to go because there was mist on the river and obviously no wind, woohoo I’ve lucked in I thought. Unfortunately at the beach the wind was howling, absolutely going off. Yes there was swell but the entire place was blown out. I would guess those winds were at least 25knots. So no session today, just a lot of...
Port On A Monday

Port On A Monday

According to the forcast the west coast was going to be small this morning with a lot of wind but starting to pick up in the afternoon with the wind dieing off at around 4. With that in mind we decided to postpone our early morning session and make it an afternoon one. The met service though suggested that the swell had not only picked up but it had come in full time with the swell supposedly 2.5 metres & 11 secs onto a high tide at 5.49pm and winds dropping to 6knotsĀ  southerly. When we pulled into the carpark we were surprised, very surprised. The swell was going off but the wind was still howling and the entire bay looked like a huge washing machine. Paddle time anyway we decided (only because we have the travelator down in the pocket or it would have been go home time). A right hander was coming in and hitting a little bank inside the pocket which because it was sheltered from the southerly wind actually ended up providing a reasonable session. Over all though it was only a 4 out of...
Swell Dropped But Still Surfable

Swell Dropped But Still Surfable

Our arrival in the carpark was greeted today with moans instead of yesterdays woops. According to the met service we should have a 1.5 m swell from the west with 18 knots of SW wind, 12 sec swell period and a high tide at 11.52am, theoretically still pretty good. We arrived at 7am this morning and as I mentioned it was a groan,,,WTF happened to all the swell? It was tiny, probably 1m max however the good news was that there was next to no wind until around 9am. I picked up a few larger sets out at the 2nd reef until the incoming tide killed it and I moved inside to pick up a few smallish left handers which were OK until the tide again killed it. Today would be about a 4 and only because I caught plenty of waves and the small inside left had a reasonable shoulder to work with....
PW Does it Again

PW Does it Again

We arrived at the car park and the woops could be heard back in Auckland. The swell was a solid 6 to 7 ft with an offshore wind hitting the sw swell. Unfortunately the wind picked up and so we had a lot of spray in the eyes on take off and even paddling around was touch with the offshore wind setting up quite a chop. Met service had this down as 3m on the swell, full tide at 10.52am (we arrived at 8.30am) and easterly wind at 17 knots. Pettey much a classic day and on my scale a 7 from 10, let down only by the...